- I had dinner at Chez L’Ami Louis in Paris, which was just bought by the richest man in Europe.
- The bistro’s famous roast chicken for $130 is incredible, and the portions are huge.
- The food was delicious, and I wasn’t mad even though our meal cost 272 euros (just under $300).
As a Paris resident of 15 years, I often pass by the red-checkered curtains at Chez L’Ami Louis.
The seemingly exorbitant prices displayed on the menu near the door have long put me off going in, but it’s no secret that this 100-year-old hotspot in the Haut Marais is one of the city’s most celebrated bistros.
It is even said to have welcomed famous customers such as Bill Clinton, David Beckham, Francis Ford Coppola, Keanu Reevesand Brad Pitt.
With such a reputation, it’s perhaps no surprise that Europe’s richest man, LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, bought a majority stake in the bistro in June. Financial details of the deal were not disclosed.
In a statement, LVMH (the French luxury goods conglomerate that owns big names like Louis Vuitton) called Chez L’Ami Louis “a destination for those seeking an authentic culinary experience in the capital.”
That said, the bistro has notoriously mixed reviews — it gets 3.5 stars on Yelp, and a common criticism is that the prices are too high.
Whatever happened, I was curious to try Chez L’Ami Louis and form my own impression.
It is easier to make reservations in person than by phone.
This restaurant only has about 12 tables, so I knew making a reservation was the best option if I wanted to have dinner here.
Reservations cannot be made online, and I tried calling but was unsuccessful. (After reading many reviews, it seems difficult to get a hold of someone from the bistro by phone.)
Since I live nearby, I tried my luck by dropping by on a Wednesday morning in late June. Even before lunch, the atmosphere at Chez L’Ami Louis seemed inviting.
As I enter the pre-war space, I’m greeted by crates of fresh fruit and vegetables covering old wooden tables. A half-dozen staff are bringing the bistro back to life after a two-day shutdown (closed Mondays and Tuesdays).
I walked to the back desk, where a serious-looking man asked if he could help me. I asked for a reservation in French—table for two, s’il vous plaît.
He studied his notebook and suggested seating for dinner next week. I eagerly booked a table for two on Sunday night.
Our reservation almost fell through, but we got lucky.
My husband and I arrived at In Front of L‘Ami Louis at exactly 8pm on our dinner date night.
The waiters were busy presenting their dinner as I slipped past 12 crowded tables to let the host know we had arrived.
After glancing at the reservation list, he looked back at me and shook his head. He asked if I called yesterday to confirm my table, and my heart sank.
I misunderstood when making a reservation: I have been expecting a confirmation call from theyas is standard practice at many top restaurants.
Maybe the maître d’ was moved by my stunned and desperate expression, or maybe we just got lucky. He told us to come back at 9 p.m.
When we returned, all eyes were on us.
After enjoying a friendly appetizer in the neighborhood, we were again treated to the same curious stares from the diners who were now eating their next course. I smiled pleasantly as the corner of the room was cleared, and we sat down at a table covered in salmon cloth.
Oval mirrors line the brown walls, and the striking black-and-white tiled floors feel like a statement piece. Near the open kitchen, baskets filled with ripe fruit look like they’re being prepared for a royal banquet.
A waiter dressed in a white button-down shirt and black tie brought us menus, and asked if we preferred water or soda.
The price is still a bit hard to swallow
I was tempted to order the fish of the day, but the price seemed so high — 150 euros (about $163) — that I wasn’t sure I could really enjoy it.
What is beef côte? (ribs) for two more affordable at 205 euros? I’m not sure. I’ve seen fish and meat dishes for less even in Michelin-starred restaurants.
We decided to choose the signature dish of escargot (50 euros).) and roast chicken (obviously for two people with a price tag of 120 euros), then ask for the wine list.
A leather-bound book containing a wide selection of wines from across the country.
This bistro’s well-stocked cellar seems to hold thousands of bottles. With house wines for 25 euros glass, we ordered a half bottle of Bordeaux for 65 euros, which felt like a bargain.
An international crew consisting of locals and tourists surrounded us.
While devouring a large plate of toasted baguette with a delicious (slightly salty) demi-sel sauce butter, I scanned the animation room to find a room filled with local and foreign faces.
At a nearby table, I recognized a fashion model who was featured in a campaign by a Parisian brand whose clothes I happened to be wearing. The women next to us were from Toronto and eager to share details about their special dishes.
On the other side of us sat a group of Frenchmen who appeared to be regulars, engaged in animated conversation with the man who appeared to be running the bistro.
Our first course arrived — and every buttery bite was sensational.
Our curiosity grew along with our appetite as we saw trays full of roast beef and roast chicken passing by us.
Finally, our sea snails arrived covered in butter and garlic. We enjoyed every dozen of our delicious sea snails.
Once the bread and butter were deftly whipped and the cutlery refreshed, the main event began.
I soon learned why roast chicken is one of the bistro’s famous dishes.
After sampling our roast chicken for a while, it was returned to us in pieces and accompanied by a large plate of French fries.
At his first bite, my husband said, “This is the best roast chicken I’ve ever had.”
As I savored the tender chicken roasted in the wood-fired oven, I nodded in agreement. I also couldn’t resist dropping the fries into the thick gravy made from goose fat and butter.
On the second serving of chicken (which, totaled, I think could easily feed a family of four), my husband accurately described the dish as “traditional French over-the-top.”
Perhaps those advantages are what make this restaurant worthy of elite status.
I wish I had more room for dessert
After our meal, we were so full that I understood why three lighter portions of seasonal red fruit with fresh whipped cream (26 euros) were a popular dessert choice.
But tempted by chocolate, we ordered the delicious gateau au chocolat (25 euros) and were not surprised by the large portion. It was more than enough for the two of us.
The chocolate cake is soft, delicious, and very sweet. It’s easy to eat, and I really enjoyed the crunchy bottom layer.
Our meal cost us almost 300 euros, but I went home with a smile on my face.
Without finishing my dessert plate, we paid the bill for a total of 272 euros and left the still-busy bistro smiling and satisfied.
Perhaps Arnault was also impressed by his dining experience at Chez L’Ami Louis — so much so that he was inspired to add the bistro to his portfolio.
But for me, I would definitely recommend Chez L’Ami Louis to anyone looking for an authentic French bistro experience. Just make sure You confirm your order, dine with fellow foodies, and be open to asking for a bag of dog food.
