I spent four nights in an overwater bungalow at Punta Caracol Acqua Lodge in Panama.
My room was only $180 a night, and I was right on the Costa Rican border with amazing views.
I could jump into the ocean from my private deck, so I was very happy with my choice.
I’ve always dreamed of staying in an overwater lodge, but I’ve never managed to budget a trip to somewhere like the Maldives to make it happen.
Then, while planning a trip to Costa Rica, I came across Punta Caracol Acqua Lodge in Bocas del Toro. While it may not be as well-known as other popular destinations, Bocas del Toro is located just west of the Costa Rican border in Panama. It is truly a mix of jungle and Caribbean beach.
The resort has overwater bungalows for around $180 per night. A standard hotel in the US would cost around $160 per night, so I couldn’t resist what seemed like a great deal.
I paid $714 for four nights in a two-story overwater bungalow. Here’s how it went.
The location of the resort is amazing.
Punta Caracol Acqua Lodge is located above the ocean along Punta Caracol Beach, a mangrove-lined coastline on the west side of Panama’s main Colón Island.
Due to its remote location, everything — including guest transfers, staff shift changes, and even laundry — rely on motorized fishing boats.
I booked a shuttle from Costa Rica to Bocas Town and took a short taxi ride from the city center to the port. From there, the resort sent a boat to pick me up.
Half the novelty of our stay at this resort was the boat ride — creaking over small waves and debating whether the distant ripples were fish or jumping dolphins.
That was when my first glance at the cottage felt magical.
Its distinctive mint green and yellow exterior feels rustic — a far cry from the soulless chain hotels I’ve stayed in. I immediately fell in love with its uniqueness.
I stayed at the Luna Suite.
My accommodation during my stay was a beautiful two-story bungalow with an extra large back porch located at the end of a wooden walkway.
With large white conches as doorknobs and a hammock swinging in the back, the home exudes a “living by the sea” feel.
The property uses a self-contained solar panel system. That means the cottages are equipped with ceiling fans, lights and WiFi, but I had to charge my personal devices (including my phone) at reception.
At first I was worried that I would find this restrictive, but it turned out to be help me unwind.
I love staying right on the water.
The real attraction is jumping straight from your private terrace into the crystal clear ocean.
The resort even provides free snorkeling gear — or kayaks, if you don’t want to get too wet.
I couldn’t leave the resort area on the first day. I spent my time snorkeling, kayaking, and reading in a hammock. On the first afternoon alone, I saw manta rays, starfish, swordfish, and many other creatures.
With 52 small islands nearby, there is plenty to see.
On the second day, I booked a tour through the resort’s concierge service to explore some of the 52 nearby small islands.
There are several free shuttles from the resort to Bocas Town daily, with additional paid transfer options. However, Punta Caracol Acqua Lodge partners with local captains, so you can also be picked up directly for day tours.
I paid an additional $45 for full day excursionwhich included a few hours on the beautiful Zapatilla Island. We went dolphin watching, snorkeled with starfish on the coral reef, and saw cute sloths.
In the evening, I splurged on a bucket-list activity: Seeing bioluminescence. A $60 private tour took me to a cove near Red Frog Beach, where phytoplankton turn on thick black water.
The whole experience was like something out of “Avatar.”
Food is an extra charge, and I was a little disappointed with the selection.
I think the balance between extra and including activities at the resort quite good, especially since the price is relatively affordable. However, the food is an exception.
The only thing included in my standard room rate was water.
Due to the tight shuttle schedule, eating at least breakfast and dinner at the inn was the best option for my trip. The food was delicious but at American prices. I ended up paying between $16 and $20 for a simple meal like seafood rice.
I brought some snacks from home to keep in my room for lunch, but I had to budget an extra $25 to 30 a day for food.
I would recommend Punta Caracol Acqua Lodge and Bocas del Toro overall.
Overwater cottages are a peaceful retreat at an affordable price.
As solo travelerI found the atmosphere pleasant. However, the cost of staying can be cheaper if you share the cost with a partner, family, or group.
Overall, Bocas del Toro is also a great destination to add to my itinerary. It may not be the Maldives, but it’s only an hour from the Costa Rican border and has plenty of tropical wildlife and unique seaside life.
I certainly didn’t see everything in four days, so I’d love to go back and explore more.